We have really enjoyed our stay in Darjeeling but its time to head North (into the cold??) and check out the northern state of Sikkim. A delightful change in transportation consists of using small Jeeps vs. the usual bus and or train. Actually this is the only way that you can get around as the roads are too narrow, steep and curve filled to allow bus travel. Even with a pedal to the metal comfy jeep it takes about 6 hours to drive the app. 115 kms from Darjeeling to the capital city of Sikkim, Gangtok. Like Darjeeling Gangtok is spread over a very steep hillside...guaranteed to get one in shape lugging a pack around town!
We found a decent hotel and explored town...she is definitely "worn out" looking, but even cleaner than Bengal (state)...some facts: It is illegal to smoke any where in public anywhere in the entire state of Sikkim. It is illegal to wrap anything one purchases in plastic bags in Gangtok (and numerous other towns in India...a neat idea and it is amazing what they can wrap up in old newspaper)
It is evident that winter is NOT the time to visit Sikkim as virtually all of the mountain roads are closed to vehicle traffic due to snow and there are no tourists...so no one to share trekking costs with etc. And Sikkim does offer some fantastic trekking opportunities...even though the very best area near the northern border with China are completely closed to all foreigners!
We had heard that India has the second largest army in the world (second only to their unfriendly neighbour China) and we can believe it after seeing the army activity in Sikkim. Hundreds of large Tata 4X4 trucks are rumbling up and down the roads as the border area in northern Sikkim is under dispute with China.
Anyways..back to Gangtok...we were amazed to see this incredible street MB Marg (Mahatma Gandhi Street..very city has a street named after MG)...beautiful stone work super-wide streets with no traffic and all of the tourist facilities of a much larger city...in stark contrast to the remainder of the city which looks "rough" to say the least. Gangtok also featured some nice parks with great views and a beautiful orchid garden. We really enjoyed our short stay in town but decided to skip on exploring the remainder of Sikkim simply because outside of monasteries and its mountains (not accessible) the state does not have much else to offer until the snow levels drop...so its back to Darjeeling!
One of the resons we loved Darjeeling is the great "chill-out" room in our hotel...wood heat, comfy chairs, lots of books and fellow travellers (along with great food) makes for happy travellers. Leaving Darjeeling we decided to take the "toy train"...running on 2 foot wide rails this train has been in operation since the 1800's and despite a rock slide that prevented us from taking the entire 8 hour ride (only 4 hours to cover 35 km!) The train (which is coal fired steam driven and yes...one hell of a smoker!!) runs right down the main road for most of its length...which is kind of interesting as we literally pass within inches of hundreds of shops, vehicles and thousands of kids, goats etc. It is obvious that the daily passing of the train is an event as people and kids wave constantly as us passengers (about 30 or so on the train). We decided to go first class (120 R (3 bucks) vs 20R for regular)...our seat recline a bit more and not much else...but the interior of the small car is a piece of art dating back to the days when everything was hand carved out of wood...exquisite designs on the roof of the car, velvet everywhere etc....they don't make them like this any more!
We took a "hairy" ride off the Himalayan foothills to the Tehri flats and the squalid city of Siliguri...this hill makes the Bella Coola hill look like the flats (literally!)...it is obvious that the jeep drivers know the road by heart as most curves are single vehicle width only but each driver knows exactly where to pull over and allow literally an inch of space between vehicles as backing uphill is not an option! Siliguri is a crap hole...but we have to stay overnight before heading to the Nepalese border on one last shot to living hell/ pot-holed Indian Road...we are at the border and through India customs in no-time. Into NEPAL at 8:15 in a pedal rickshaw (no motor rickshaw's in Nepal) (Feb 4th)
India was a great experience! There was definately some very tough times...virtually all realted to travelling from one place to another. The people have been great and the variety of our experiences amongst the best we have experienced in our travels. NOW its time for NEPAL!!
We found a decent hotel and explored town...she is definitely "worn out" looking, but even cleaner than Bengal (state)...some facts: It is illegal to smoke any where in public anywhere in the entire state of Sikkim. It is illegal to wrap anything one purchases in plastic bags in Gangtok (and numerous other towns in India...a neat idea and it is amazing what they can wrap up in old newspaper)
It is evident that winter is NOT the time to visit Sikkim as virtually all of the mountain roads are closed to vehicle traffic due to snow and there are no tourists...so no one to share trekking costs with etc. And Sikkim does offer some fantastic trekking opportunities...even though the very best area near the northern border with China are completely closed to all foreigners!
We had heard that India has the second largest army in the world (second only to their unfriendly neighbour China) and we can believe it after seeing the army activity in Sikkim. Hundreds of large Tata 4X4 trucks are rumbling up and down the roads as the border area in northern Sikkim is under dispute with China.
Anyways..back to Gangtok...we were amazed to see this incredible street MB Marg (Mahatma Gandhi Street..very city has a street named after MG)...beautiful stone work super-wide streets with no traffic and all of the tourist facilities of a much larger city...in stark contrast to the remainder of the city which looks "rough" to say the least. Gangtok also featured some nice parks with great views and a beautiful orchid garden. We really enjoyed our short stay in town but decided to skip on exploring the remainder of Sikkim simply because outside of monasteries and its mountains (not accessible) the state does not have much else to offer until the snow levels drop...so its back to Darjeeling!
One of the resons we loved Darjeeling is the great "chill-out" room in our hotel...wood heat, comfy chairs, lots of books and fellow travellers (along with great food) makes for happy travellers. Leaving Darjeeling we decided to take the "toy train"...running on 2 foot wide rails this train has been in operation since the 1800's and despite a rock slide that prevented us from taking the entire 8 hour ride (only 4 hours to cover 35 km!) The train (which is coal fired steam driven and yes...one hell of a smoker!!) runs right down the main road for most of its length...which is kind of interesting as we literally pass within inches of hundreds of shops, vehicles and thousands of kids, goats etc. It is obvious that the daily passing of the train is an event as people and kids wave constantly as us passengers (about 30 or so on the train). We decided to go first class (120 R (3 bucks) vs 20R for regular)...our seat recline a bit more and not much else...but the interior of the small car is a piece of art dating back to the days when everything was hand carved out of wood...exquisite designs on the roof of the car, velvet everywhere etc....they don't make them like this any more!
We took a "hairy" ride off the Himalayan foothills to the Tehri flats and the squalid city of Siliguri...this hill makes the Bella Coola hill look like the flats (literally!)...it is obvious that the jeep drivers know the road by heart as most curves are single vehicle width only but each driver knows exactly where to pull over and allow literally an inch of space between vehicles as backing uphill is not an option! Siliguri is a crap hole...but we have to stay overnight before heading to the Nepalese border on one last shot to living hell/ pot-holed Indian Road...we are at the border and through India customs in no-time. Into NEPAL at 8:15 in a pedal rickshaw (no motor rickshaw's in Nepal) (Feb 4th)
India was a great experience! There was definately some very tough times...virtually all realted to travelling from one place to another. The people have been great and the variety of our experiences amongst the best we have experienced in our travels. NOW its time for NEPAL!!
